French hood

===Habilments or billaments===

===Habilments or billaments===

[[File:Anne Cresacre by Hans Holbein the Younger.jpg|thumb|right|[[Thomas More]] was said to have refused to buy a billiment for Anne Cresacre, here drawn by [[Hans Holbein the Younger|Holbein]] in a "transitional" hood]]

The front of the hood could be decorated with a jewelled band, in England called a "habilment or "billement", (see below).Nadia T. van Pelt, ''Intercultural Explorations and the Court of Henry VIII'' (Oxford, 2024), p. 149 fn. 107: [[Diana Scarisbrick]], ''Jewellery in Britain, 1066-1837'' (Norwich: Michael Russell, 1994), 117–18. In the early 1540s, Henry VIII passed a [[sumptuary law]] restricting the usage of "any Frenche hood or bonnet of velvett with any habiliment, paste, or egg [edge] of gold, pearl, or stone" to the wives of men with at least one horse.

The front of the hood could be decorated with a jewelled band, in England called a "habilment or "billement", (see below).Nadia T. van Pelt, ''Intercultural Explorations and the Court of Henry VIII'' (Oxford, 2024), p. 149 fn. 107: [[Diana Scarisbrick]], ''Jewellery in Britain, 1066-1837'' (Norwich: Michael Russell, 1994), 117–18. In the early 1540s, Henry VIII passed a [[sumptuary law]] restricting the usage of "any Frenche hood or bonnet of velvett with any habiliment, paste, or egg [edge] of gold, pearl, or stone" to the wives of men with at least one horse. According to an early biography of [[Thomas More]], he refused to give his ward and daughter-in-law Anne Cresacre a billiment set with pearls, and instead he gave one set with white peas as a lesson.[[Christopher Wordsworth (divine)|Christopher Wordsworth]], ''Ecclesiastical Bibliography'' (London, 1818), p. 136.W. Vaughan Hitchcock and P. Hallet, ''The Life of Syr Thomas More'' (London: Early English Text Society, 1950), p. 129.

[[File:Bess of Hardwick as Mistress St Lo.jpg|thumb|right|[[Bess of Hardwick]] in the 1550s.[https://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1129165 Bess of Hardwick: National Trust Collections]]]

[[Catherine Howard]] gave "upper and nether habiliments of goldsmith's work for a French hood" to [[Alice Wilkes]].[[Nicola Tallis]], ''All The Queen's Jewels, 1445–1548: Power, Majesty and Display'' (Routledge, 2023), p. 221. The English courtier [[Elizabeth Holland]] owned four pairs of upper and nether "billyments of goldsmith's work" in 1547.[[George Frederick Nott]], ''Works of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey and of Sir Thomas Wyatt the Elder'', vol. 1 (London, 1815), p. cxix. [[Katherine Brandon, Duchess of Suffolk ]] owned several pairs of gold billaments, set with table and pointed diamonds, rubies, or pearls, and enamelled.W. Gilchrist Clark, [https://archive.org/details/wiltshirearchaeo27wiltuoft/page/n213/mode/2up 'Unpublished Documents relating to the Arrest of William Sharington', ''Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Magazine'', 27 (1894), pp. 168–169] [[Mary I of England]] gave gold billaments to some of her gentlewomen to wear at her [[coronation of Mary I of England|coronation in 1553]].Henry King, 'Ancient Wills, 3', ''Transactions of the Essex Archaeological Society'', 3 (Colchester, 1865), p. 187: [[British Library]] Harley 7376 ff. 29v, 32r. Accounts of the wardrobe of Mary I and Elizabeth I show that the fabric band itself was also called a "billiment".E. Estcourt, "Warrant of Queen Mary", ''Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of London'', 3 (London, 1864), pp. 103, 105. [[Mary Radcliffe (courtier)|Mary Radcliffe]] made billiments for Queen Elizabeth's hoods from white satin and Elizabeth, Lady Carew, made the hoods from black velvet and satin.[[Janet Arnold]], ''Lost From Her Back'' (Costume Society, 1980), pp. 38–39 nos. 95–96, 45–46 nos. 143, 146.

[[Catherine Howard]] gave "upper and nether habiliments of goldsmith's work for a French hood" to [[Alice Wilkes]].[[Nicola Tallis]], ''All The Queen's Jewels, 1445–1548: Power, Majesty and Display'' (Routledge, 2023), p. 221. The English courtier [[Elizabeth Holland]] owned four pairs of upper and nether "billyments of goldsmith's work" in 1547.[[George Frederick Nott]], ''Works of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey and of Sir Thomas Wyatt the Elder'', vol. 1 (London, 1815), p. cxix. [[Katherine Brandon, Duchess of Suffolk ]] owned several pairs of gold billaments, set with table and pointed diamonds, rubies, or pearls, and enamelled.W. Gilchrist Clark, [https://archive.org/details/wiltshirearchaeo27wiltuoft/page/n213/mode/2up 'Unpublished Documents relating to the Arrest of William Sharington', ''Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Magazine'', 27 (1894), pp. 168–169] [[Mary I of England]] gave gold billaments to some of her gentlewomen to wear at her [[coronation of Mary I of England|coronation in 1553]].Henry King, 'Ancient Wills, 3', ''Transactions of the Essex Archaeological Society'', 3 (Colchester, 1865), p. 187: [[British Library]] Harley 7376 ff. 29v, 32r. Accounts of the wardrobe of Mary I and Elizabeth I show that the fabric band itself was also called a "billiment".E. Estcourt, "Warrant of Queen Mary", ''Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of London'', 3 (London, 1864), pp. 103, 105. [[Mary Radcliffe (courtier)|Mary Radcliffe]] made billiments for Queen Elizabeth's hoods from white satin and Elizabeth, Lady Carew, made the hoods from black velvet and satin.[[Janet Arnold]], ''Lost From Her Back'' (Costume Society, 1980), pp. 38–39 nos. 95–96, 45–46 nos. 143, 146.

In 1550, [[Bess of Hardwick]]'s husband [[William St Loe]] paid £11 for "my wyffes billymentes". Her step-daughter Catherine's "belymente" cost 28 [[shilling]]s. Bess was depicted in portraits wearing a French hood and billament.Alison Wiggins, "Marriage, Money, and Remembrance", Lisa Hopkins, ''Bess of Hardwick: New Perspectives'', p. 46: [[Santina M. Levey]], "References to Dress in the Earliest Account Book of Bess of Hardwick", ''Costume'', 34:1 (January 2000), p. 16. {{doi|10.1179/cos.2000.34.1.13}} Among the clothes of Jane Tyldysley of [[Worsley]], Lancashire, in 1556 were "2 French hoodes with a billiment of silver gilded".''Lancashire and Cheshire Wills'' (Chetham Society, 1884), p. 15. In 1582, [[Anne Browne|Anne Petre]], widow of Sir [[William Petre]], bequeathed to her daughter-in-law, Mary Petre, a billiment of goldsmith work with black enamel, thirteen pieces set with nine pearls, and fourteen pieces without pearls.[[F. G. Emmison]], ''Elizabethan Life: Wills of Essex Gentry and Merchants'' (Chelmsford, 1978), p. 33.

[[File:Anne Cresacre by Hans Holbein the Younger.jpg|thumb|right|[[Thomas More]] was said to have refused to buy a billiment for Anne Cresacre, here drawn by [[Hans Holbein the Younger|Holbein]] in a "transitional" hood]]

In 1550, [[Bess of Hardwick]]'s husband paid £11 for "my wyffes billymentes", and her step-daughter Catherine's "belymente" cost 28 [[shilling]]s. Bess' hood and billament in 1557 was depicted in her portrait by [[Hans Eworth]].Alison Wiggins, "Marriage, Money, and Remembrance", Lisa Hopkins, ''Bess of Hardwick: New Perspectives'', p. 46: [[Santina M. Levey]], "References to Dress in the Earliest Account Book of Bess of Hardwick", ''Costume'', 34:1 (January 2000), p. 16. {{doi|10.1179/cos.2000.34.1.13}}

Among the clothes of Jane Tyldysley of [[Worsley]], Lancashire, in 1556 were "2 French hoodes with a billiment of silver gilded".''Lancashire and Cheshire Wills'' (Chetham Society, 1884), p. 15. In 1582, [[Anne Browne|Anne Petre]], widow of Sir [[William Petre]], bequeathed to her daughter-in-law, Mary Petre, a billiment of goldsmith work with black enamel, thirteen pieces set with nine pearls, and fourteen pieces without pearls.[[F. G. Emmison]], ''Elizabethan Life: Wills of Essex Gentry and Merchants'' (Chelmsford, 1978), p. 33. According to an early biography of [[Thomas More]], he refused to give his ward and daughter-in-law Anne Cresacre a billiment set with pearls, and instead he gave one set with white peas as a lesson.[[Christopher Wordsworth (divine)|Christopher Wordsworth]], ''Ecclesiastical Bibliography'' (London, 1818), p. 136.W. Vaughan Hitchcock and P. Hallet, ''The Life of Syr Thomas More'' (London: Early English Text Society, 1950), p. 129.

=== Depiction on tomb effigies ===

=== Depiction on tomb effigies ===